Tomyhoi Peak via The Southeast Route (Scrambling)

September 18th 2022


This trip is for those of us who missed Youliana’s two weeks ago and who are keen to catch the fall colours (and the views) in The North Cascades. (Note: the photo that I used to advertise this post came from It does not belong to me.)

Required experience:

  • cramponing on consolidated snow
  • self-arrest
  • scrambling Class 3/4 terrain with moderate exposure (i.e., a fall could cause grievous injury)
  • adequate fitness for a long day; AllTrails says that this route is 21.1 km long, with 1,448 m of elevation gain

Logistical notes:

  • I will not be able to check my email or the calendar of trips between ~10:00 AM and 6:00 PM on Saturday, September 17th, which means that you will have to sign up tonight or wait until Saturday night to hear back from me (unfortunately).
  • There is a ton of information on this route online and in Matt Gunn’s guidebook. Please do your research before signing up for this event.
  • Although I would like to attempt the scramble to the summit, my main interests are in the fall colours and views, so I would be happy switching Tomyhoi out for Williams Peak, in Chilliwack, which does not require snow travel or a border crossing.

My questions for you:

  • Do you think that 1:30 PM is a reasonable turnaround time? I would like to be back at the car by 6:00 PM at the very latest, allowing us an hour before the sun sets in case of unexpected delays, and I think that we should climb conservatively if we have not done anything together before.
  • What are your primary reasons for joining the trip (i.e., what about it interests you)? I would like to reach the summit, in particular because the only real scrambling, to my knowledge, is near the top, but I would have no qualms whatsoever about turning back if we were moving inefficiently, someone did not like the exposure, etc.
  • What previous experience do you have on trips like this one? What do you see as the technical crux of this route?

Required gear:

  • The app for ArriveCan and your passport or Nexus Card
  • Bear spray
  • A helmet and ice axe
  • Stiff-soled boots, gaiters, and crampons
  • Sunglasses, sunscreen, and ChapStick
  • Food, water, and clothes
  • The ten essentials, including a whistle and means of navigation

Guest sign-up

Sign-ups are no longer available for this event.