Spearhead Traverse – Attempt 2

April 12th 2024


This trip can be done over 2 or 3 days. 3 days will be easier and will allow time for some skiing.


  • If conditions are not suitable for this trip then another 2 or 3 day trip will be substituted, such as the Garibaldi Neve, or a basecamp trip
  • Be prepared to rappel the Overload notch. Alternatives are 1) ski the full Overlord Glc or 2) Ski part of the Overlord Glc and skin to whirlwind pass. All 3 options have downsides.
  • There are significant hazards on this trip including open crevasses. I expect that we will be roped up for sections around Overload

Required Snow and Weather Conditions:

  • Mostly clear weather
  • Alpine avalanche danger rating of Moderate or lower on all days except for day 1 which can be Considerable


  • AST1 equivalent or better
  • Glacier and crevasse rescue training
  • Strong downhill riding skills on Double Black runs in any conditions with a 40 to 50lb pack
  • Fitness for 35km, 2,000vm over 2 or 3 days carrying a 40 to 50lb pack
  • Ability to rappel (YouTube experience does not count)
  • Good attitude


  • Prior traverse experience
  • Prior winter camping experience

Trip Plan:

  • Day 1
    • Leave North Vancouver by 530am
    • Park in Lot 4 by 730am.
    • Be at guest relations by 8am to buy passes
    • Ski to a camp on the Tremor or Platform Glc
  • Day 2:
    • Ski to a camp on the Diavolo Glc
    • Optional ascents: Ripsaw Peak, Mt MacBeth
  • Day 3:
    • Optional ascent and ski of Whirlwind
    • Ski out via Singing Pass Trail or the Musical Bumps

A two day trip is feasible but there wont be any time for additional skiing or summits.

Guest sign-up

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