Description

Description

Description

This is more comprehensive than the 2 hour indoor sessions held at the Hive. Please allow for a full day outside (8-9 hours).

The planned location is the aptly named Dinky Peak, adjacent the the Mt Seymour parking lot. We will need either BC Parks parking passes (available 2 days before the day of the session; typically easy to get) to guarantee that we have access to parking. We will meet on a street at the base of Mt Seymour and car pool from there.  HollyBurn is an alternate location.

 

Notes:

• ** Several people will need to reserve park passes at 7am Friday morning. These will sell out in minutes. **
• If  we cannot get enough park passes then I will remove people from the trip list beginning with the last people added.
• This session will be cancelled or rescheduled if the weather is not suitable for 8 to 9 hours outside.
• This session will be cancelled if it will be very cold (below -10C) throughout the day, or too wet (too much precipitation and close to zero degrees).
• Preference will be given to those not enrolled in the 4-day STGT held in late January, and who did not attend the Jan 17th crevasse rescue training.

 

Prerequisites:

-AST1 (February enrollment is fine)

-Adequate fitness for a full day outside (we will not travel far, but you will be on your feet all day)

-Prior indoor training is helpful but not required

-Practice the knots and systems in the videos below

 

Agenda:

-Snow Anchors with skis, ice axes, snow pickets (T-slot, X, I)

-Haul systems (3:1, 5:1, drop loop, Z-Pulley, brute force)

-Identifying crevasses

-When to tie in

-Travelling in a rope team

 

Please practice the following knots before the session:

• Overhand on a bight:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_fOKk1HPjbI
• Figure 8 on a bight:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kbB85p_uJsE
• Moose Knuckle: https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/the-brake-knot-for-2-person-glacier-travel
• Prussic Hitch:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFHxQ5fiUvI

 

The system that will be covered is based on the following videos.

• Please watch both videos before the session.
• This video contains a lot of theory which is useful and is based on prussics without using modern progress-capture devices. However I will modify the system shown by using Petzel Micro Traxion devices and Tiblocs rather than prussics.
  • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1O9G0ro_nk&t=4534s
    • 5:00: Number of people
    • 8:50: Type and length of rope
    • 13:00: Introduction to knots
    • 15:18: Overhand on a bite
    • 16:30: Prussic Hitch
    • 19:18: Moose Knuckle
    • 21:00: When to tie into a rope
    • 41:00: Data and demonstration of crevasse falls
    • 53:40: Basic equipment
    • 57:40: Rescue description and demonstration
• The following video demonstrates a similar system but it uses mechanical devices
  • www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXRf4fCyass

 

More videos:

• T-Slot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Smki89m3v3Q
• I anchor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tHtNKfx5Uc
• Prepping the crevasse lip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhBOnQHeGR0

 

Required Equipment (there is some flexibility here – ie not everyone needs an ice axe, or all of the prussics and biners):

-Touring gear (skis or board, skins, poles, boots) or snowshoes and/ or micro-spikes

-Helmet

-Avi Gear (probe, shovel, beacon)

-Layers for all weather (cold, snow)

-Food and water

-Crevasse rescue gear (1 each: harness, short prussic(s), 5-6m prussic (optional), 180cm sling; 4x locking biners; 3 non-locking biners)

-Ice axe

 

Recommended Gear:

-Chocolate for the leaders!!

-Pulley

-Tibloc

-Micro Traxion (or similar)

-Snow pickets (for anchors)

-50 tp 70m rope to share (we need 1 rope per 3 people)

 

Risks and Hazards:

General Hazards:

Slips trips and falls indoor or outdoor. Equipment failure. Infectious disease contracted through viruses, bacteria, parasites, and fungi which may be transmitted through direct or indirect contact. Negligence of other persons, including other guests. Negligent first aid. Negligence of the guide Including failure to take reasonable steps to safeguard or protect you from, or warn you of risk, dangers, hazards, on participating in ACC activities.

Terrain:

Cornices and crevasses. Trees, tree wells, and tree stumps. Cliffs, creeks, rocks and boulders. Holes and depressions below the snow surface. Variable and difficult snow conditions. Snowcat roads and road ranks. Fences and other man-made structures. Impact or collision with other persons, vehicles or objects. Encounters with domestic or wild animals. Loss of balance or control. Becoming lost or separated from the group. Slips, trips, and falls.

Avalanche:

Avalanches can occur in the terrain you will be entering. Caused by natural forces, or by people travelling through the terrain (skiing/snowboarding). Anyone caught in an avalanche is at risk of personal injury, death, and/or property damage or loss.

Communication and Rescue:

Communication can be difficult and in the event of an accident, rescue and treatment may not be available. Adverse weather may also delay the arrival of treatment and transport out of the field. If an injury occurs in challenging terrain movement to an evacuation point may be slow.

Boots and Binding Systems:

Even when set up correctly, a ski binding might not release during every fall or may release unexpectedly. The ski boot/binding system is no guarantee that the skier will not be injured. Non-DIN-certified bindings, such as pin/tech bindings, present a higher risk of pre-release and/or injury as they are not designed to the same safety standards as a DIN-certified alpine binding.

Unlike alpine ski boot/binding systems, snowboard and some telemark boot/binding systems are not designed or intended to release and will not release under normal circumstances. Using such a system increases the risk of injury and/or death when caught in an avalanche.