Description

This course is more comprehensive than the 2 hour indoor sessions held during the fall at the Hive. Please allow for a full day (7 to 8 hours).

 

The planned location is the aptly named Dinky Peak, adjacent the the Mt Seymour parking lot. We will need either BC Parks parking passes (available 2 days before the day of the course; typically easy to get) or we will pay for Mt Seymour Resort snowshoe passes ($17 pp) to guarantee that we have access to parking. We will meet at a nearby coffee shop before 7:00am to sign waivers and arrange a carpool to Mt Seymour. HollyBurn is an alternate location.

I will increase the group size from 15 to 18 if there is another knowledgeable leader.

I will post another training day for January or February as well.

This course will be cancelled or rescheduled if the weather is not suitable for 7 to 8 hours outside.

 

** The only guests allowed are VOC Members **

 

Prerequisites:

-AST1

-Adequate fitness for a full day outside (we will not travel far)

-Prior indoor training is helpful but not required

-Knowledge of the knots and system listed below

 

Agenda:

-Tying-in and travel advice

-Snow Anchors (T-slot, X, I)

-Haul systems (2:1, 4:1)

-Ascending a rope

 

Please practice the following knots before the session:

• Figure 8 follow through:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFlwrvggas0
• Overhand on a bight:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_fOKk1HPjbI
• Figure 8 on a bight:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kbB85p_uJsE
• Prussic knot:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFHxQ5fiUvI
• Moose Knuckle: https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/the-brake-knot-for-2-person-glacier-travel

 

I system that I will teach is based on the following video.

• Please watch this video before the course.
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QfWZkHK4loo&t=4543s
• This video contains a lot of theory which is useful.
• Skip to 41:00 for a description of the system
• Skip to 58:00 for a demonstration of the system

 

More videos:

• T-Slot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Smki89m3v3Q
• I anchor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tHtNKfx5Uc
• Prepping the crevasse lip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhBOnQHeGR0

 

Required Equipment (there is some flexibility here – ie not everyone needs an ice axe):

-Touring gear (skis or board, skins, poles, boots) or snowshoes or micro-spikes

-Helmet

-Avi Gear (probe, shovel, beacon)

-Layers for all weather (cold, snow)

-Food and water

-Crevasse rescue gear (1 each: harness, short prussic, 5-6m prussic, 120cm sling; 4x locking biners; 3 non-locking biners)

-Ice axe

 

Recommended Gear:

-Chocolate for the leader!!

-Pulley

-Tibloc

-Micro Traxion (or similar)