Description
This course is more comprehensive than the 2 hour indoor sessions held during the fall at the Hive. Please allow for a full day (7 to 8 hours).
The planned location is the aptly named Dinky Peak, adjacent the the Mt Seymour parking lot. We will need either BC Parks parking passes (available 2 days before the day of the course; typically easy to get) or we will pay for Mt Seymour Resort snowshoe passes ($17 pp) to guarantee that we have access to parking. We will meet at a nearby coffee shop before 7:00am to sign waivers and arrange a carpool to Mt Seymour. HollyBurn is an alternate location.
Notes:
- I will increase the group size from 12 to 18 if there is another knowledgeable leader.
- This course will be cancelled or rescheduled if the weather is not suitable for 7 to 8 hours outside.
- This course will be cancelled if it will be very cold (below -10) throughout the day, or too wet (too much precipitation and close to zero degrees).
- Preference will be given to those not enrolled in the 4-day STGT course held in Early February. Thus, I will not add anyone to this course until the STGT course is full.
Prerequisites:
-AST1
-Adequate fitness for a full day outside (we will not travel far)
-Prior indoor training is helpful but not required
-Knowledge of the knots and system listed below
Agenda:
-Snow Anchors with skis, ice axes, snow pickets (T-slot, X, I)
-Haul systems (2:1, 4:1, Z-Pulley, brute force)
-Identifying crevasses
-When to tie in
-Travelling in a rope team
Please practice the following knots before the session:
- Overhand on a bight: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_fOKk1HPjbI
- Figure 8 on a bight: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kbB85p_uJsE
- Moose Knuckle: https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/the-brake-knot-for-2-person-glacier-travel
- Prussic Hitch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFHxQ5fiUvI
The system that I will teach is based on the following videos.
- Please watch this video before the course.
- This video contains a lot of theory which is useful and is based on prussics without using modern progress-capture devices. However I will modify the system shown by using Petzel Micro Traxion devices and Tiblocs rather than prussics.
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1O9G0ro_nk&t=4534s
- 5:00: Number of people
- 8:50: Type and length of rope
- 13:00: Introduction to knots
- 15:18: Overhand on a bite
- 16:30: Prussic Hitch
- 19:18: Moose Knuckle
- 21:00: When to tie into a rope
- 41:00: Data and demonstration of crevasse falls
- 53:40: Basic equipment
- 57:40: Rescue description and demonstration
- The following video demonstrates a similar system
- www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXRf4fCyass
More videos:
- T-Slot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Smki89m3v3Q
- I anchor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tHtNKfx5Uc
- Prepping the crevasse lip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhBOnQHeGR0
Required Equipment (there is some flexibility here – ie not everyone needs an ice axe, or all of the prussics and biners):
-Touring gear (skis or board, skins, poles, boots) or snowshoes and/ or micro-spikes
-Helmet
-Avi Gear (probe, shovel, beacon)
-Layers for all weather (cold, snow)
-Food and water
-Crevasse rescue gear (1 each: harness, short prussic, 5-6m prussic, 120cm sling; 4x locking biners; 3 non-locking biners)
-Ice axe
Recommended Gear:
-Chocolate for the leader!!
-Pulley
-Tibloc
-Micro Traxion (or similar)
-Snow pickets
-50 tp 70m rope to share (we need 1 rope per 3 people)
Risks and Hazards:
General Hazards:
Slips trips and falls indoor or outdoor. Equipment failure. Infectious disease contracted through viruses, bacteria, parasites, and fungi which may be transmitted through direct or indirect contact. Negligence of other persons, including other guests. Negligent first aid. Negligence of the guide Including failure to take reasonable steps to safeguard or protect you from, or warn you of risk, dangers, hazards, on participating in ACC activities.
Terrain:
Cornices and crevasses. Trees, tree wells, and tree stumps. Cliffs, creeks, rocks and boulders. Holes and depressions below the snow surface. Variable and difficult snow conditions. Snowcat roads and road ranks. Fences and other man-made structures. Impact or collision with other persons, vehicles or objects. Encounters with domestic or wild animals. Loss of balance or control. Becoming lost or separated from the group. Slips, trips, and falls.
Avalanche:
Avalanches can occur in the terrain you will be entering. Caused by natural forces, or by people travelling through the terrain (skiing/snowboarding). Anyone caught in an avalanche is at risk of personal injury, death, and/or property damage or loss.
Communication and Rescue:
Communication can be difficult and in the event of an accident, rescue and treatment may not be available. Adverse weather may also delay the arrival of treatment and transport out of the field. If an injury occurs in challenging terrain movement to an evacuation point may be slow.
Boots and Binding Systems:
Even when set up correctly, a ski binding might not release during every fall or may release unexpectedly. The ski boot/binding system is no guarantee that the skier will not be injured. Non-DIN-certified bindings, such as pin/tech bindings, present a higher risk of pre-release and/or injury as they are not designed to the same safety standards as a DIN-certified alpine binding.
Unlike alpine ski boot/binding systems, snowboard and some telemark boot/binding systems are not designed or intended to release and will not release under normal circumstances. Using such a system increases the risk of injury and/or death when caught in an avalanche.
Guest sign-up
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