Crevasse Rescue Dry Practice

December 9th 2024


Description

The session will start promptly at 7pm in the Tech Lab. Please arrive early.

 

*** Although non-members can sign up, the only guests that will be accepted are VOC members ***

 

All participants must complete a hive waiver: https://hiveclimbing.com/north-shore/

 

This crevasse rescue dry training session will cover the basics of:

  • Recommended gear including traditional methods vs modern mechanical devices
  • Tying in
  • Haul systems
  • Ascending ropes (theory only as the Hive does not have any ropes)
  • T-slot snow anchors
  • Glacier travel advice

 

All skill levels are welcome. The only pre-requisites are knowledge of the knots listed below and a harness.

 

Please practice the following knots before the session. We will not review these knots during the course. These knots are also covered in the longer video

 

The system that I will teach is based on the following videos.

  • Please watch this video before the course.
  • This video contains a lot of theory which is useful and is based on prussics without using modern progress-capture devices. However I will modify the system shown by using Petzel Micro Traxion devices and Tiblocs rather than prussics.
  • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1O9G0ro_nk&t=4534s
    • 5:00: Number of people
    • 8:50: Type and length of rope
    • 13:00: Introduction to knots
    • 15:18: Overhand on a bite
    • 16:30: Prussic Hitch
    • 19:18: Moose Knuckle
    • 21:00: When to tie into a rope
    • 41:00: Data and demonstration of crevasse falls
    • 53:40: Basic equipment
    • 57:40: Rescue description and demonstration
  • The following video demonstrates a similar system
    • www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXRf4fCyass

Required equipment:

-Climbing harness

 

Strongly recommended equipment:

-3 locking biners

-3 non-locking biners

-1 120cm sling

-1 short prussic cord (6 or 7mm ~1.5m; or hollow block)

-1 or 2 long prussic cords (6 or 7mm, 5 to 6m)

-1 pulley (optional)

 

Additional recommended equipment (much or the instruction on rope systems will focus on how to use these devices):

-Petzl Micro Traxion (or similar progress capture pulley)

-Petzl Tibloc

 

Payment:

-Payment in advance by etransfer is required to secure your spot.

-No refunds. Your payment cannot be transferred to another evening.

-I will provide payment instructions by email before each session.

 

Additional Information:

-I have extra biners, pulleys and some cord which I will bring.

-I may ask other people to bring ropes depending on the number of participants.

-I will increase the group size to 18 people if there is another knowledgeable co-instructor

Guest sign-up

Sign-ups are no longer available for this event.