Crevasse Rescue Dry Practice

November 18th 2024

Event Details

  • Date: –
  • Spots: 18
  • Member Cost: 10 CAD
  • Destination: Hive North Shore
  • Categories:
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Attendee Screening: Attendees are Pre-Screened - The Trip Leader will review your background and contact you before accepting you on the trip. You will get a confirmation that your sign-up is pending right away.
    That doesn't mean that you are confirmed to go on the trip yet. If you are accepted, you should receive an email from the coordinator to confirm your sign-up and coordinate the trip's details.

Description

The session will start promptly at 7pm in the Tech Lab. Please arrive early.

 

*** Although non-members can sign up, the only guests that will be accepted are VOC members ***

 

All participants must complete a hive waiver: https://hiveclimbing.com/north-shore/

 

This crevasse rescue dry training session will cover the basics of:

  • Recommended gear including traditional methods vs modern mechanical devices
  • Tying in
  • Haul systems
  • Ascending ropes (theory only as the Hive does not have any ropes)
  • T-slot snow anchors
  • Glacier travel advice

 

All skill levels are welcome. The only pre-requisites are knowledge of the knots listed below and a harness.

 

Please practice the following knots before the session. We will not review these knots during the course. These knots are also covered in the longer video

 

The system that I will teach is based on the following videos.

  • Please watch this video before the course.
  • This video contains a lot of theory which is useful and is based on prussics without using modern progress-capture devices. However I will modify the system shown by using Petzel Micro Traxion devices and Tiblocs rather than prussics.
  • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1O9G0ro_nk&t=4534
    • 5:00: Number of people
    • 8:50: Type and length of rope
    • 13:00: Introduction to knots
    • 15:18: Overhand on a bite
    • 16:30: Prussic Hitch
    • 19:18: Moose Knuckle
    • 21:00: When to tie into a rope
    • 41:00: Data and demonstration of crevasse falls
    • 53:40: Basic equipment
    • 57:40: Rescue description and demonstration
  • The following video demonstrates a similar system
    • www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXRf4fCyass

Required equipment:

-Climbing harness

 

Strongly recommended equipment:

-3 locking biners

-3 non-locking biners

-1 120cm sling

-1 short prussic cord (6 or 7mm ~1.5m; or hollow block)

-1 or 2 long prussic cords (6 or 7mm, 5 to 6m)

-1 pulley (optional)

 

Additional recommended equipment (much or the instruction on rope systems will focus on how to use these devices):

-Petzl Micro Traxion (or similar progress capture pulley)

-Petzl Tibloc

 

Payment:

-Payment in advance by etransfer is required to secure your spot.

-No refunds. Your payment cannot be transferred to another evening.

-I will provide payment instructions by email before each session.

 

Additional Information:

-I have extra biners, pulleys and some cord which I will bring.

-I may ask other people to bring ropes depending on the number of participants.

-I will increase the group size to 18 people if there is another knowledgeable co-instructor

Guest sign-up

Sign-ups are no longer available for this event.