Description

The session will start promptly at 8pm in the Tech Lab. Please arrive early.

 

*** Although non-members can sign up, the only guests that will be accepted are VOC members ***

 

All participants must complete a hive waiver: https://hiveclimbing.com/north-shore/

 

This crevasse rescue dry training session is intended to cover the basics of:

• Recommended gear including traditional methods vs modern mechanical devices
• Tying in
• Haul systems
• Ascending ropes (theory only as the Hive does not have any ropes)
• Snow anchors
• Glacier travel advice

 

All skill levels are welcome. The only pre-requisites are knowledge of the knots listed below.

 

Please practice the following knots before the session. We will not review these knots during the course.

• Figure 8 follow through:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFlwrvggas0
• Overhand on a bight:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_fOKk1HPjbI
• Figure 8 on a bight:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kbB85p_uJsE
• Moose Knuckle: https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/the-brake-knot-for-2-person-glacier-travel
• Prussic knot:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFHxQ5fiUvI

 

 

I system that I will teach is based on the following video.

• Please watch this video before the course.
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QfWZkHK4loo&t=4543s
• This video contains a lot of theory which is useful.
• Skip to 41:00 for a description of the system
• Skip to 58:00 for a demonstration of the system

 

Required equipment:

-Climbing harness

 

Strongly recommended equipment:

-3 locking biners

-3 non-locking biners

-1 120cm sling

-1 short prussic cord (5mm ~1.5m; or hollow block)

-1 long prussic cord (5mm, 6m)

-1 pulley (optional)

 

Additional recommended equipment (much or the instruction on rope systems will focus on how to use these devices):

-Petzl Micro Traxion (or similar progress capture pulley)

-Petzl Tibloc

 

I have extra biners, pulleys and some cord which I will bring.

I may ask other people to bring ropes depending on the number of participants.