A Week of Mountaineering at The Glacier Circle Cabin

August 20th 2022


I am looking for four partners to join an existing party of four (from The ACC Squamish) for a week of mountaineering at The Glacier Circle Cabin. The approach to the cabin entails 1,425 m of elevation gain over 14 km and extensive glacier travel; just getting to the hut is a full-on mountaineering problem.

The goal of this trip is not so much to “bag peaks” as to practise safe alpine travel and to experience the area; you should both see this trip as exploratory in nature (none of us have ever been there before) and have all of the skills necessary to travel independently with one to three other partners on day-trips from the hut. The terrain there ranges from 4th class to mid-5th, and the climbs vary from accessible (F, 4th class) to highly committing (Mount Fox’s East Ridge goes at AD, 5.4, and the descent involves rappelling over a bergschrund). Please carefully consider your level of experience in selecting objectives in this region, and climb conservatively.

The Itinerary:
August 20th: drive to Glacier National Park and spend the night at The Illecillewaet Campground
August 21st: hike in to the cabin
August 22nd-26th: climb, scramble, or rest in teams of 2-4
August 27th: hike out and spend the night at The Illecillewaet Campground
August 28th: drive back

Required Items:

  • basic mountaineering equipment (as outlined in the club’s Basic Mountaineering Course (BMC)) – a harness, a helmet, an ice axe, crampons, gaiters, gloves, a kit for crevasse rescue, etc. – I do not know how to add attachments to events, but I can email you the list of required gear for The BMC
  • tools for navigation (a GPS, a topo map, descriptions of routes, a compass, etc.)
  • ropes, rock pro, and snow and ice pro to be discussed once the list of participants is finalized
  • I will bring an inReach

Recommended Items:

  • your favourite foods, playing cards, lightweight equipment for physio, etc.

Required Experience:

  • completion of the club’s BMC or a close equivalent
  • self-arrest, crevasse rescue, and glacier travel
  • alpine scrambles (e.g., the harder ones in Matt Gunn’s book) if you plan on doing scrambles
  • multi-pitch climbs in Squamish and at least one moderate alpine climb (e.g., Mount Rexford’s West Ridge, Mount Slesse’s Southwest Buttress, Sloan Peak’s Northeast Ridge, etc.) if you plan to do roped climbs

A Note on the Cost: The cabin costs $40/night for members of The ACC, and I have booked it for six nights –> $240/person for the whole trip

Useful Links:

If you have any questions about this trip, please feel free to phone me, email me, or send me a message through the club’s website. I have attached Wikipedia’s photo of Mount Fox’s daunting East Ridge to gain people’s attention.

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