As a result of collaboration between the Alpine Club of Canada
and the Ecole Nationale d’Escalade du Québec (ENEQ) to make
UIAA-certified standards for voluntary leaders and instructors in
mountain sports available to
ACC members across Canada, an Alpine Instructor course will be
organized in the Tantalus Range at the end of August 2014.
Alpine Instructor Course Description
The certification is designed for people wishing to teach
autonomous alpine activities, at any site where alpine snow, rock
and ice climbing routes are available in both summer and winter
conditions. This certification is not
specific to a particular site; its holder will be able to lead trips at
any site, unless specific access permits are required.
The training will be organized at the Jim Haberl Hut in the
Tantalus Range, BC. Ten days of technical and pedagogical
training will be conducted for teaching skills on alpine, rock, ice
or snow terrain.
To be eligible for the Alpine Instructor course, the candidate will
need to have passed the UIAA Rock Instructor exam (multi-pitch
on placed protections) or the UIAA Ice Instructor Exam.
A two day technical Assessment Entry Exam will be conducted
prior to the training in order to assess the technical level and
knowledge of the candidates. This entry exam must be passed
by the candidates who do not meet
Successful completion of this course certifies the participant for
teaching individuals or groups in recreational climbing activities
involving autonomous glacier travel, lead climbing on single and
multi-pitch routes on alpine
rock, snow and ice terrain.
Criteria and required technical level for
Age: 18 years
GTE: Have completed the General Theory
Exam (GTE). GTEs can be taken online.
Prerequisites: Hold a UIAA Ice or Rock
Instructor certification or challenge the Assessment
Have completed a Four Seasons Survival training and a
Navigation training or any recognized equivalent. Have
completed the Avalanche Skills Training Level 1 with the
Canadian Avalanche Centre (CAC).
Assessment Entry Exam: The Assessment
Entry Exam will consist of multi-pitch climbing, belaying, rope
and station management, anchor placement on rock, snow and
ice, glacier travel, rock and alpine
rescue and decision-making.
Experience: At least one season of teaching
or leading climbing trips or activities. All candidates are required
to fill out the pre-assessment form. This will contribute to the
understanding of the requirements. Pre-assessment forms will
be available upon request.
Gear: Have your own gear and know how to
use it. A recommended gear list will be sent out prior to the
The candidate must be able to lead climb efficiently and
comfortably on multi-pitch routes:
‣ Up to 5.8 rock while placing gear.
‣ WI 3+ on ice with anchor placement.
The routes must be done on-sight without falling, or pulling or
resting on protection.
The candidate will also be judged on ability to belay safely
according to the UIAA standards and with different belay systems
(ATC, Reverso, GriGri, Hip belay, Improvised belays, etc.).
Additionally, the candidate must demonstrate a good
understanding of the skills needed for decision-making on
alpine terrain, glacier travel, crevasse rescue, alpine rock and ice
climbing techniques and leadership.
Master the following techniques
‣ Belay and top-rope station installation on placed protections,
screws, fixed and natural anchors
‣ Fixed line installation
‣ Alpine climbing techniques on rock, snow, ice terrain and
‣ Static and dynamic belay management on single and multi-
‣ Single and multi-pitch rappel
‣ Self-rescue systems on single and multi-pitch climbs
‣ Crevasse rescue techniques
These techniques must be mastered in order to teach them.
Different methods are used for each technique. You must know
at least one method per requested technique and execute it
according to the minimum UIAA
safety standard. For a more detailed listing of the specific
techniques, please refer to the pre-assessment form..
The assessment is based on four criteria:
1. Formative evaluation: the candidate is assessed during the
course based on the following abilities
a. Technical abilities
b. Leadership skills
2. Lesson plan: the candidate is assessed on his/her ability to
prepare a lesson plan based on assigned topic
3. Theory exam: the candidate is assessed on a theory exam at
the end of the training
4. Teaching exam: the candidate is assessed on a teaching
lesson he/ she will execute at the end of the training
This course will be assessed by a representative of the UIAA
Training Standards Panel to award the ENEQ Alpine Instructor
with the UIAA Training Standards Label. Based on the ENEQ’s
recent collaboration with the Russian
Mountaineering Federation Alpine Instructor course which
received this label last year, the ENEQ is confident in fully
providing a quality course, which surpasses the UIAA
Validity of certification
Three years, renewable with a three-day re-certification course.
Course duration and schedule
Entry Exam: Aug 19 to 20, 2014
Training Alpine: Aug 21 to 31, 2014
Price: $1750, includes training, exam, UIAA
assessment, helicopter, hut and food prepared by a cook.
The Jim Haberl Hut is a single storey wood frame structure with
metal roofing and cladding. There is a large kitchen and sitting
room with wonderful views to the north, south and west. There
are also two sleeping rooms
with bunks for 6 people each.
Cooking: Food will be prepared by a cook to
allow participants to focus on the training. Breakfast, lunch and
dinner will be provided either at the hut or as lunch boxes.
Heating: A propane heater keeps the hut
cozy on cool days.
About the ENEQ
L’École Nationale d’Escalade du Québec (ENEQ) is a volunteer
based non-profit organization, which has trained over 2000
candidates with standardized training courses across Canada
since 1999. It is an association of
teaching volunteers and professionals who wish to provide
quality-training courses that ensure a safer practice of all
This association has defined its mandate as one of standardizing
the present competence level of climbing instructors. This
standardization is done by offering rigorously designed and
UIAA approved programs in gym,
rock, ice and alpine climbing.
More info on the ENEQ at www.eneq.info
About the UIAA Training Standards
The UIAA wants to encourage good practice in the training of
voluntary mountaineering leaders and instructors. Therefore the
UIAA has developed the UIAA Training Standards for its member
associations. With the UIAA
Training Label, the associations can prove that their training and
assessment schemes have been independently examined by a
UIAA expert and endorsed by an international panel. This makes
it possible for mountaineers
from different countries to recognize each other’s qualifications.
The Training Standards are managed by the members of the
Training Standards Working Group.
More info on the Training Standards at www.theuiaa.org
Benoit Waller – 604
Sign-ups are no longer available for this event.