Description

Time to dust off the tools and get ready for winter with some glacier ice cragging! We will be spending two days climbing on the seracs and crevasses of the Coleman Glacier on Mt Baker. See blogpost of what to expect https://climberkyle.com/2018/10/27/coleman-seracs-ice-climbing/

 

Prerequisites

• Ability to travel to the United States.
• Competent in belaying, both lead and top rope, as well as rappelling.
• Comfortable travelling on dry glaciers unroped and moving on low angle ice. Knowledge of rescue systems is still required.
• Experienced in backcountry camping and leave no trace principles.
• Fun and safe mindset when climbing in a group setting! (we may choose to have set partners or rotate in a more flexible cragging manner, but ideally we share can share and set ropes for people who will top rope in a similar fashion to the Thursday Night Climbs)

IMPORTANT, Please Read

Upon signing up for this trip, please answer yes or no if you meet the prerequisites. Additionally, please list if you have experience in climbing ice (lead/top rope, how long, comfortable WI grade). If you do not have previous ice climbing experience, please state how long you have been rock climbing for, indoor or outdoor experience, or any other mountaineering experience. I am looking to keep a minimum 1:1 ratio of experienced participants to beginners so that we are able to efficiently set up ropes on features we would like to climb. Applicants who fail to answer prerequisites and list experience will not be selected. I am ideally aiming to have the participants finalized by Sept 17-18.

A WhatsApp chat will be organized for carpool and trip planning once participants are selected.

 

Itinerary

Sept 26: Drive down to Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead to meet for 7am. Hike to Harrison Camp and set up camp. Depart camp and approach to tongue of Coleman Glacier. Set up climbs on either the seracs or crevasses.

Sept 27: Depart camp to glacier, same as Saturday. Climb to latest 4pm. Return to camp to pack tents and hike back to trailhead.

 

Possible Hazards & Mitigation

Slips, trips, falls on approach trail. – Requirement of sturdy footwear and optional hiking poles.

Wildlife (bears). – Carrying bear spray, travelling and camping as a group. Following bear-safe camping practices.

Glacier travel & crevasse fall. – We are likely travelling unroped on the glacier (conditions pending), participants must be comfortable on glaciers and low angle ice, and to be aware of their surroundings when climbing. Participants are also required to be knowledgeable in rope rescue systems. We may belay participants up low angle ice if necessary. Crampons must be worn at all times while on the glacier.

Belay failure/ wet ropes, climber fall, rappel failure. – Encouraged use of assisted braking devices or “alpine Grigri”. All participants are required to know how to give attentive belays and how to rappel. Only experienced ice climbers will be permitted to lead.

Dropped ice tools or other gear. Ice fall (small). – Optional use of leashes on tools. Requirement of helmets and awareness of surroundings.

Ice/ serac fall. – Choosing to climb in areas with low overhead hazard and observing the glacier throughout the day. If it is deemed necessary, we will leave the area and climb the crevasses lower on the glacier.

 

Ice Climbing Gear List (In addition to standard climbing gear and overnight camping gear. A full gear list will be shared with selected participants)

-Technical Ice Tools

-Crampons (ideally technical)

-Caritool/ Screw Holders (if leading)

-Ice Screw Rack (if leading)

-Mountaineering Boots

-Waterproof Gloves

Tools, crampons, and boots may be rented from Climb On Equipment https://climbonequipment.com/pages/rental-gear