Description

Remember how you took that workshop in rock rescue/crevasse rescue/etc. and now you’ve forgotten what to do? Let’s get together and refresh our rope ascending skills. My thought is that we can try out some different techniques with typical multi-pitch climbing equipment.

Some scenarios when you might need this skill

– you rappelled past the anchor and now you have to ascend a few metres to get to the anchor
– you rappelled off the wrong anchor and can’t reach any anchor at all and have to climb back up
– you’re leading or seconding a climb that traverses and you fall and end up on a smooth unclimbable slab or even dangling in space

Prerequisites

*** This is not a training session; this is an opportunity to refresh existing knowledge and practice with like-minded others. This does not replace qualified instruction.***
– you should know how to tie a prusik knot (and a double fisherman if you’re using cord rather than Hollowblock)
– you should have at least some knowledge of how to ascend a rope even if you’re a little rusty
– you should be comfortable rappelling with a friction hitch backup
– optionally, review the garda hitch

What to bring

– helmet!
– harness
– belay device (bring what you usually climb with, and also bring a guide ATC or similar if you have one)
– at least 2 prusik loops (one can be a cordelette), I recommend 7 mm cord but feel free to try out 5 mm or other sizes; Hollowblock prusiks are fine, but don’t bring dyneema slings to use as prusik cord because their slipperiness and low melting point make them unsafe to use as friction hitches
– at least two locking carabiners and a few non-lockers as well
– comfortable shoes: no climbing shoes needed
– snacks, warm clothes, and water
– head lamp for the walk out

Recommended

– cordelette (I like 6 metres of 7 mm cord but bring what you have)

Optional

– rope and anchor building materials: I will bring one or two ropes, but it would be good to have more
– a few extra slings (not for friction hitches), your PAS if you usually climb with one
– tibloc, micro traxion, or other rope-grabbing device if you have one
– belay gloves

Meeting point and plan

We’ll meet at 6 at the Smoke Bluffs parking lot. Walk in and set up anchors. Discuss some techniques, and try them out. Finish up around 8:30.

Cancellation

I’ll check the weather forecast and decide whether to go or not by 8 p.m. the evening before. Wet rock is OK for this trip, but if it looks like sigificant rain, I’ll cancel.

Resources

https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/prusik-rope (check out the standard prusiking technique section)

Hazards

Special considerations for this trip

• Failure of the anchor, rope, harness, or ascension setup
• Falling from the anchor ledge, or accident while walking or rappelling down
• Rockfall or dropped equipment
• Usual risks that come with travelling to an outdoor climbing setting and doing high-angle roped activities

Communication and rescue

Communication can be difficult and in the event of an accident, rescue and treatment may be slow. If an injury occurs in challenging terrain movement to an evacuation point may be slow.

Terrain

Cliffs | Creeks | Rocks and Boulders | Fences and other human-made structures | Impact or collision with other persons, vehicles or objects | Encounters with domestic or wild animals | Loss of balance or control | Becoming lost or separated from the group | Slips, trips, and falls

General hazards

Slips trips and falls indoor or outdoor| Equipment failure| Infectious disease contracted through viruses, bacteria, parasites, and fungi which may be transmitted through direct or indirect contact | Negligence of other persons, including other participants| Negligent first aid| Negligence of the trip organizer including failure to take reasonable steps to safeguard or protect you from, or warn you of risk, dangers, hazards, on participating in ACC activities