Description

Mount Shuksan is an iconic objective in
the North Cascades, and the Sulphide Glacier is the least
technical route up it (with snow slopes of up to 30 degrees).
The crux of the route is the summit pyramid, which can be
attempted as a Class III-IV scramble or a 5.4 climb. We may
need to forgo the summit pyramid in the event of adverse
weather, excess crowding, or copious rockfall.

Saturday, August 10:, we will leave Vancouver at 10:00 AM,
with the aim of arriving at the ranger station at Sedro-Wooley
at approximately 12:00 PM. There, we will try to obtain a
backcountry permit (which can only be obtained in person). If
we get a permit, we will start the approach by 2:00 PM and
camp near the base of the Sulphide Glacier; if we do not get
a permit, we will camp by the trailhead and start the
approach on Sunday morning at 12:30 AM.

Sunday, August 11: We will make an alpine start at 3:00 AM
or, if we camp at the trailhead, at 12:30 AM and ascend the
Sulphide Glacier en route to the summit pyramid. We will
start our descent no later than 10:00 AM, with the aim of
reaching the car by 5:00 PM.

The glacier travel on this route is straightforward, but the
summit pyramid has high risk of rockfall, especially as the
day heats up. There are two standard routes up the summit
pyramid: (A) the rock gully (Class III-IV scrambling), which is
less technical but has higher risk of rockfall from loose rock
and other parties, and (B) the Southeast Rib (5.4), which will
require comfort with alpine rock. Both options will be
discussed and one chosen based on the team’s composition
prior to our start of the approach. The gully contains
permanent rappel stations for the descent.

Experience with roped glacier travel and Class III-IV
scrambling and knowledge of crevasse rescue systems will
be essential. Snow slopes should not exceed 30 degrees.
Please be prepared for a strenuous approach.

For descriptions of the route, please follow these links:
https://www.summitpost.org/sulphide-glacier/155524
https://www.mountaineers.org/activities/routes-places/mt-
shuksan-sulphide-glacier

For a detailed description of the route, see pp 286-289 of
Selected Climbs in the Cascades Vol 1, 2nd Ed.

Applicants for this event will be screened for this event.
Please describe your recent mountaineering experience.
When did you complete the Basic Mountaineering Course or
an equivalent?
What is the the steepest snow grade that you have travelled?
What crevasse rescue systems are you familiar with?
What is your experience with Class III-IV scrambling?
What is your experience with alpine rock?
How much do you weigh?