Description

Registration opens 10pm May 20th

OVERVIEW
MOUNT HOOD
South Side route, also known as the Palmer Glacier route, is a Grade II, class 2-3 glacier climb begins at the 5,800′ Timberline Lodge parking area, is the shortest (< 3 miles) and most popular route to the summit. Above the Palmer ski lift there are 3 variations of this route, the most popular of which is the Hogsback / Pearly Gates route (35 degree). The Hogsback / Old Crater (40 degree) variation is used when the Pearly Gates are congested. ASCENT ROUTE....Follow Palmer Glacier, along east edge (right side) to avoid interfering with ski trails (as directed by sign at climbers’ trailhead), to Triangular Moraine above cat track (5° bearing from Silcox hut). Climb above Triangular Moraine (8,500 ft) on most gentle ground to east side of Crater Rock (slope opposite Steel Cliff). Follow round Crater Rock, above sulfur-fuming Devil’s Kitchen (10,400 ft), to its north side to find wind carved snow formation called the Hogsback.
DESCENT ROUTE…..Descend the climbing route.
CLIMBING CONSIDERATIONS

1.While Mount Hood has reportedly been summited by a woman in high heels, this does not discount the need for climbing experience on this mountain. An ice axe and crampons should be considered mandatory for most climbers, with climbing helmets being a popular addition, especially higher up.
2.On warm days it is recommended you get an early start (which is closer to midnight than sunrise), to be out of rockfall areas by 10am.
3.Due to the loose rock, climbers are urged to tread lightly, staying on the snow and ice while climbing and not dislodging any rock.
4.Check and be wary of the summit cornice, especially during the winter and early spring.
5.Do not linger around the fumaroles which create oxygen voids that have asphyxiated (suffocated) unsuspecting climbers.

MOUNT ADAMS
is the second highest peak in Washington State and the third highest in the Cascade Range. It is a broad volcanic massif which towers above the surrounding hills about 30 miles north of the Columbia River. The summit is covered by a large icecap, and over a dozen glaciers pour down its flanks, most via massive and treacherous icefalls. However, the South Rib (Suksdorf Ridge) route is crevasse-free, providing one of the easier climbing routes and nicest ski runs on any of the northern Cascade volcanoes. It has over 7000 ft (2100 m) of skiable vertical in the spring, including a near-perfect 30-degree pitch for over 2500 ft (800 m) below the false summit.

ITINERARY

Friday (6 am) Drive to Government Camp (town @ base) of Mt Hood..(8 + hrs).
Overnight @ Hostel in town for early 3 am Saturday start…. Drive to Timberline Lodge trail head. Ski tour std route to summit (estimate 6-8 hrs return)
After descent of Mt Hood ..drive to Trout Lake Ranger Station for Mt Adams Permit ($15 US Cash if required, rumour has it charges don’t start until June 1st).

Drive to Mt Adams South Ridge Trail head ascend (3 hours) to “the Lunch Counter”
Sunday 4 am start

Ascend on ski’s to Mt Adams Summit (estimate 6-8 hrs return)
Between 12 & 2 pm… start 7 hour drive home.